Thursday, June 10, 2010

Eastern Adventures

I've been home just over a week, and am finally getting a chance to sort out my photos and memories and photographic memories. I blame Louise and Alice (cousin and her sister-in-law, respectively) for the delay in getting this post together. They arrived at Mom's the day after I arrived home. Yes, I had seen Alice just days before but managed to miss Louise - she was heading to St John while Alice and I were on the road to Fredericton. Anyhoo, it was great to see them and to be able to show them around our little neck of the woods.
Here's the group after dining at the Davis Bay "fish truck" (purple van in the background, not to be confused with The Grape which is parked off at the left).
But I digress. This blog is all about me, after all. So, without further adieu, I give you a condensed version of my Maritime meanderings.

First stop was Halifax, home of dear friends Dan and Pat. Their dog Hidey was an especially good host, particularly after receiving her "after dinner mint". Here's a shot of Dan, Pat, and Hidey on their front porch.
Just out of sight, above the door to 6310 Duncan St, is the flag of Nova Scotia. On special occasions (the Queen's birthday, anniversary of famous naval battles, birth/death of a notorious pirate, etc.), Dan hangs an appropriate flag (Union Jack, red or white ensign, Jolly Roger, etc.). A plaque on the railing (you can see the frame just below his coffee cup) informs interested passersby of the significance of said flag. Just the sort of thing one would expect from a curator of marine history. And, yes, I got a special tour of the Museum of the Atlantic. Most other touristy sights were seen on a previous trip. This time I wanted to spend most of my time visiting with Dan and Pat. Even so, we managed to visit the Hydrostone District (area of the city devastated by the Halifax Explosion), the art gallery (Maud Lewis's house was a highlight), and a section of a graveyard populated by victims of the Titanic sinking. Another highlight was a bird's-eye view of Kingsport, the model railway version Dan has set up in his basement.
Not sure which part I like best, the greenhouse with its tinier than tiny flowers, miniature replicas of Pat's quilts on the line next to a house, or the nifty lighting and sound effects. Little wonder his nephew likes to visit!

Dan drove me up to St John en route to a model railway convention (he received a prize for his greenhouse!).
Phil and Ellen met us for the pre-arranged "prisoner exchange". First order of business, breakfast. Cousin Bruce's daughters Jacqualine and Melissa were home for a friend's wedding, so it was a great excuse to get together with everyone. Dining location, the local Irving Station,of course (the numerous Tim Horton outlets couldn't accommodate all of us at one table). What a crew!!
Scary how Bruce's tummy and my bust line are about the same size.
Most of my time in New Brunswick was spent with Phil and Ellen at their lovely home overlooking the St John River. It was there that I managed to strike another item off my bucket list - kayaking.
Seems folks come from all over the world to test their metal against the power of the world-famous Reversing Falls. Imagine my surprise when the fellow next to me said "If you can handle this, you should try the Skookumchuck"! Little did he know that I lived just a short drive from that white water playground. Now, Mother, don't get excited. That isn't really me and Ellen shooting the rapids. Truth be told, this is how I looked lowering myself into a kayak for the first time, in the gentler waters across the street from Phil and Ellen's.
Soon got the hang of things, although the feathered paddle was a bit tricky at first (had a video showing my masterful paddling technique, but my less-than-superior computer skills won't enable me to upload it so you'll have to use your imagination - and, no, I didn't need to quickly learn how to Eskimo roll!).

On another day, Phil, Ellen and I did some exploring on both sides of the St John River. Took three tiny ferries before completing our route. Here's a view from above the opposite shore. Lovely Queen Ann's Lace in the foreground.
Did some exploring around St John, too. Popped in to the old courthouse to see "the" spiral staircase.
















While this this a beautiful staircase, I really like the effect that I got by shooting the underside of another spiral staircase in the building ...








Looks more like a seashell or a mushroom than the underside of a staircase, no?
Along with my other personal affects, my luggage contained a wee envelope I came across whilst sorting out some of Mom's things prior to her move to Sechelt. Given the postmark of Upper Kent, NB and the date 1946, it likely contained a wedding card from Mom's aunt Alma. Note the 1 cent stamp:
 
Imagine my delight in finding that 7 Charlotte St is still standing (#7 is the purple door on the right)!
No trip to the Maritimes would be complete without a shared meal or two, or six. In addition to the group gathering at the Irving Station (a very popular spot, I might add, with offerings that are more palatable than Denny's). Here is a short of the aftermath from one such gathering at Phil and Ellen's:
I have no idea what pithy bit of wisdom Bruce was imparting during the clean-up, but I have little doubt that it was something quite profound.
Did I mention that fiddleheads made an appearance at most dinners? Alice happily demonstrated the highly refined bums-up technique for picking fiddleheads while Susan forged for greener pastures. Neither of them, loving relatives that they are, bothered to mention that fiddlehead season tends to coincide with black fly and May fly season. I could have used an extra hand or two just to keep the beasts at bay, never mind picking my dinner. As we all piled in the car after pillaging Alice's friend's crop (at the edge of the friend's property on the shore of the St John) I noticed that the front wall of the house wasn't white like the rest of the building. It was, in fact, a quivering mass of black - black flies and May flies. Gross! Was certainly glad to be eating indoors.
On my last night in St John, Phil, Ellen, Ellen's sister Glenna and their Mom joined me for dinner at the Reversing Falls. Great view, good food. Delightful company! Of course, I had another fill of seafood. 

Returned to Nova Scotia via the St John/Digby ferry. It was my first time crossing the Bay of Fundy, and the weather was perfect for the event. Phil and I were pretty certain we saw a fluke from a grey whale diving just off Digby Harbour  but Ellen wasn't so sure. We did all agree, however, that the French come much closer to describing the real function of a nursery as evident from my poor phonetic pronunciation of the word gracing this door on the ferry ...
Had another brief visit with Dan and Pat before heading to the airport. Managed to have a pleasant shower-enhanced walk through the Halifax Public Gardens. Many of the garden beds were in transition, but it was still a lovely place to wander.

All in all, it was a wonderful trip. While I managed to squeeze in a fair amount of sightseeing, the main focus of the journey was to see as many people as I could. I think I succeeded in seeing or talking to everyone I wanted to at least once. 

In addition to the bout of gout, there was only one unsavory moment. That was when Phil, Ellen and I attempted to have a nice dinner at the Evandale Resort. One of the last riverboat inns, the place had fallen on some tough times but new owners are trying to turn things around. Unfortunately, they seem to lack focus. We asked for a window table and were given one overlooking the road rather than the river. There are a zillion typos on the menu and the history that appears on the back of same. There is absolutely no ambiance in the room save for what is projected on the big-screen TV. The place more closely resembles my parent's old rec room than the "fine dining" establishment it is advertised to be. About that TV: it is a continuous slide show of the property. Fair enough, but do I really need to see a shot of heavy equipment, a guy standing in a pool while holding a garden hose, or a side view of a diesel tank? Should have been a clue of the dinner to come. The chicken breast stuffed with lobster and shrimp appealed, so I ordered that. I arrived a minute or two after Phil and Ellen received their meals. At $20, I was disappointed to find a mass-produced roll-style breast sitting on my plate. The vegetables were clearly over-cooked, but just barely warm. The mashed potatoes were dry. Worse, the chicken breast had a grey pallor not at all becoming to something intended to pass my lips. I ventured to take a bite. Dipped in the creamy garlic sauce that amply ladled over the roll, it was okay. Cutting into it for a second bite, I was horrified to find both chicken and seafood raw save for the very thin grey exterior. Obviously the "dish" had been nuked and not at all sufficiently. No doubt Ellen's alarm of "my God, did you swallow it?!?" caught the ear of the waitress who quickly whisked the offending mass from view. She returned a minute or two later to inform me that it would take longer to cook the stuffed breast than for Phil and Ellen to finish their meals. I was not offered anything as compensation. I had to ask for something else. I opted for the lasagna, thinking it a safer choice. About five minutes after Phil and Ellen finished their respective meals, the lasagna arrived. I was warned to mind the plate as it was extremely hot. Now skeptical, I ventured to sample the lasagna closest to the edge of the dish. It was lukewarm. A poke at the middle of the dish revealed ice crystals. I got up from the table in search of the manager only to find Phil and the waitress hot on my heels. I informed the waitress that we wouldn't be paying for dinner. She didn't argue and seemed both unsurprised and unfazed. I asked for the owner/manager's card and gave her mine. Phil then informed her I'm a food writer. Only then did she mutter an apology. When we got back to the house, Phil pulled out a copy of the New Brunswick tourism guide. The Evandale Resort received a four-star rating and noted that it property boasts a "fine dining" establishment and offers wedding packages. I am currently in the process of contacting New Brunswick Tourism, the provincial health department, and the owners in writing. Doubt much will happen. But at least all of you now know not to eat at the Evandale Resort in Evandale, New Brunswick!! Hey, friends don't let friends eat bad food. Especially food that might kills them. RAW CHICKEN - Ugh!

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