General Stuff re Japan Trip

Figure it’s about time for another installment re my travels to the Land of the Rising Sun. Here are a few things I learned during my travels:

First off, let me say Japan isn't nearly as expensive as I expected it to be. I have no idea where writers who report that the average lunch costs $30 US as we never paid more than $12 each for any given meal. Most of the time the cost was well under $10. I suppose that is because we often picked up a bento box in the basement of a department store (amazing food emporiums these are). If you made the purchase one hour after lunch or one hour before closing, the price was discounted. I think most lunches were about $5-$7. Japanese fast-food like ramen is about the same price. Managed to stay at hotels that included extremely large breakfasts or buffets, so that was another savings. Between the two meals, I was rarely hungry for much when it came to the evening meal. Hotels tended to be affordable as they were not in the centre of town. Also Yoriko managed to find great deals on Japanese hotel sites - which had less expensive options than the English sites had. The most expensive night was the ryokan (traditional inn) in Kyoto which worked out to about $350 for the two of us - and included a seven-course dinner, three-course breakfast, and "welcome" tea and snack. Of course, I did see a pot of tulips for $50 but then those would be considered as exotic as orchids would be for us so are priced accordingly. Subway tickets were priced by distance, but averaged about $3. Personally, I didn't find the overall cost to be much different than my recent trip to Paris. 

It is very, very, very difficult to get around without an ability to read Japanese. Yes, speaking the language is a big help, but that won’t help you navigate your way. English maps are available, but little signage is written in anything other than Japanese characters so those maps are useless. Step outside of central Tokyo, and English lettering is even more uncommon. Further complicating matters is the layout of the city. Tokyo streets follow the flow of the two moats that surround the Imperial Palace, located at the heart of the city. Several streets are further bisected by rivers. There is no grid whatsoever, so numbers don’t follow a logical sequence from one street to the other. In addition, addresses do not refer to any individual structure. Rather, an address will indicate an approximate location within the larger city. At best, in Tokyo, it will direct to you a specific block – but you may have to circle the entire four sides of that block before coming upon the desired destination. Then there are examples like the Suwa Shrine and Daien-ji Temple. The address of Tanaka, Taito-ku indicates both are located in the Yanaka district, but the two structures are about eight blocks apart and two streets over from each other! Thanks to the incorporation of a grid system for its street layout, navigating Kyoto is slightly easier. But nothing beats having a Japanese guide who is able to ask for more specific directions re getting from A to B. Thank you, Yoriko-san!

The Japanese LOVE design. Don't think I saw a single plain paper bag the whole time I was there. In most cases, things tended to be over wrapped - the concept of minimal packaging has not yet reached these shores. Fashion is a extension of the design concept, and women were especially eager to show off their sense of style. Noticed more than one person - men and women - wearing eyeglass frames with no lenses. They didn't let a simple thing like not needing glasses interfere with their fashion sense! Heck, even manhole covers are beautiful in Japan.

Tokyo manhole cover. The flower is the symbol of the city.

Kamakura manhole cover

Arimatsu manhole cover (Arimatsu is considered part of Nagoya)

 To say the Japanese people are incredibly polite is an understatement. It is impossible to walk into a store, restaurant, hotel, or whatever without receiving a smile and welcome greeting. Often the welcome (and farewell) is accompanied by a bow. Bowing etiquette is very important and very complicated – sometimes just quickly bowing the head is enough, other times a deep bend at the waist is in order. Not sure I got it right all of the time.

Bowing isn’t the only etiquette that is strictly observed. Canadians have much to learn from the Japanese when it comes to cell phone etiquette. While the electronic appendages are in constant use, there are strict rules re how they are used in certain situations. No surprise they are frowned upon at shrines and temples. Interestingly, nobody talks on phones on subways or trains. In fact, this is law. It is, however, okay to text in such places so expect to ride is relative silence where the tic-tic of the rail cars is echoed by the tapping of so many text keys.

Smoking is still very popular in Japan. Don’t be surprised to find people lighting up in izakaya (pubs) and other indoor establishments. Annoyingly, even though Yoriko and I booked non-smoking hotel rooms, there was always an ashtray available as well as warnings against smoking in bed (fortunately only one hotel room wafted of smoke when we first arrived). Beware, however, where you light up outside. There are several bus shelter-like structures that provide enclosed public smoking areas – the first I saw were just outside the airport terminal; others are located along sidewalks in major business areas. Sometimes an entire street is a no smoking area.

With smoking so popular, it isn’t surprising to see cigarette vending machines throughout the city. In fact, cigarette machines seemed second only to beverage machines which seemed to be everywhere we went. Interestingly, beverage machines are capable of supplying both hot and cold drinks – my favourite was hot yuzu (a citrus fruit somewhere between a lemon and a grapefruit). Apparently, it is possible to buy almost anything from a vending machine in Tokyo. I saw machines that dispensed books, newspapers, and flower arrangements. In business areas, it is possible to buy a new shirt, tie, pants, and toiletries which must be a real help to any salaryman who didn’t make it home the night before setting out once more for the office. Have heard it is possible to buy used undergarments once worn by teenage girls, but I wasn’t about to go tracing any of those down.

Blue prices for cold drinks; red prices for hot drinks

One of the most disturbing lessons I received was delivered on a train station platform while we were waiting to board a train that would take us to Tokyo Station where we would catch the Shinkasen (bullet train) to Kyoto. Following an announcement, the crowd let out a collective groan and then started to disperse to find other modes of transportation as they expected our train to be delayed for some time. Yoriko told me the announcement said someone fell onto the track, and she had little doubt it was a suicide. I asked how she could be so certain and was told that someone commits suicide in Japan every 15 minutes!! (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suicide_in_Japan)  Most take place in Tokyo, and jumping in front of a train is a popular method. Seems it is such a common occurrence, news reports have stopped mentioning the incidents. Yoriko offered a simple explanation for the high number of suicides: the economy. She reminded me that not long ago employees had a job for life. Things changed. Having a strong yen hasn’t helped matters. Adding to the stress of losing a job is the fact that many people live in housing provided by their employer. No job, no home. Imagine the situation if you are the sole breadwinner of a family. One day you are working, the next you, your family and everything in your home is on the street. Literally. With a tighter job market, the situation is even bleaker. Kinda puts Canada’s economic “woes” in perspective, no?

Speaking of Japanese workers, I had a thought of spending a night in a capsule hotel. Yeah, it would be cramped, but it wouldn’t be something I would be likely to do ever again – assuming I could stave off claustrophobia long enough to catch a few zzzz. Turns out almost all capsule hotels are restricted to male patrons, the majority of which are so-called salarymen (white-collar workers) who end their work day by going out on a bender and then miss the last train home. This information took the appeal off that hotel option. So did the fact that one of the few establishments to offer accommodations to women was on the far side of Tokyo. Decided the room I had in Tokyo – which was only slightly larger than the double bed – was small enough for my amusement.

Tokyo hotel room. Couldn't pull the chair out from under the desk because the bed was in the way.  Only one foot between foot of bed and the wall. Door to bathroom just to left of photo. Door to room hit bathroom door if either  fully opened. 

Garbage cans are few and far between in public areas. Yoriko told me this is a result of the 1995 “gas attack”. On March 20 of that year, members of the Aum Skinrikyo cult entered crowded subway cars during the morning rush hour and released sarin (a nerve agent) on unsuspecting passengers. More than a dozen people died and hundreds more were injured, some permanently. While many cult members were arrested (some executed for their part in the attack, other culprits sentenced to life in prison), the event continues to have a profound effect on the Japanese psyche. Removal of garbage cans from public areas is seen as an easy way to ensure the relatively crime-free nature of the nation is maintained.

Other conveniences not readily available in public areas include toilet paper and paper towels in public washrooms. As such, it is always wise to accept the free packages of tissue that are handed out at subway stations during the evening rush – sure they are ads for the newest shop in the neighbourhood (whether it’s a computer store or a love hotel), but the tissues are a godsend should you find yourself short. Another tip: always carry a hankie to use as a hand towel. Mine was especially welcome after rinsing my hands before entering any shrine or temple.

Yoriko washing hands before entering temple in Nara. Stories re the nasty Nara deer will wait for another posting. 

In Japan, toilets aren’t purely functional, they also provide endless entertainment possibilities. Okay, so the traditional Japanese toilet (which resembles a urinal mounted on the floor) might not fall into this category – 

unless you watched me trying to stand up after using one – but most others I encountered certainly did. For example, the bowl of the toilet in my Tokyo hotel room didn’t fill with water until you sat down – this ensured a clean bowl every time (the John Cage character in “Ally McBeal” would be pleased). A train station offered an ingenious toilet/sink combo – flushing the toilet drained the tank which was topped by a tap used for washing hands post performance; the grey water from hand-washing filled the tank readying it for the next flush. Regardless of their configuration, most “western” toilets come equipped with a series of intimidating looking buttons and knobs that allow the sitter to partake of an optional wash/rinse/dry cycle after the, um, business portion of the event is completed. Some also provide a music option, apparently an attempt to suggest a private moment remains just that (Willie Nelson anyone?). Was impressed to find that several amenities in department stores and other public facilities include booster seats for the younger set as well as high chairs bolted to the inside of some cubicles for the convenience of caregivers with no free hand to attend to the demands of a young child.

Some toilet controls are part of the seat. These ones are mounted on the adjacent bathroom wall. I'll leave it to your imagination, gentle reader, to figure out which button does what.

Since I arrived in Tokyo on January 2, I was able to experience a number of things that only occur around the New Year celebrations. For example, it was not unusual to see stores offering “lucky bags”. These were specially assembled merchandise offered at a special price. An example was available for inspection so prospective purchasers would have some idea re what they would get, but the actual contents of any given bag was always covered either by a lid or tissue or both to keep the element of surprise intact. One example offering from a department store included a scarf, some candy, and a bottle of perfume. While the candy and perfume were known quantities, the colour and pattern of the scarf was not. An interesting twist on the grab bag, to be sure.

One department store (Tobu, one of the largest department stores in the world) turned a large portion of one floor into an artisan showcase/sales area. Weavers, kimono makers, kumihimo artists, brush makers, comb makers, glass cutters, stone carvers, etc. set up stalls around the space and the public was welcome to watch the artisans at work and to purchase any of their wares. Yoriko told me this was something that only took place during New Year’s, so it was quite a treat. We spoke with several artists about a wide range of crafts. One that was particularly interesting was an obi weaver who included real gold threads in his work.

The "cartoon" on the paper helps guide the weaver re the design, like the type used by Barbara Heller when she is weaving her amazing tapestries.  

Another bit part of the New Year’s celebrations is a trip to the local shrine and/or temple. There were big crowds everywhere we went, but Yoriko said they would have been much larger on Jan 1 and 2. Even so, it was quite the sight. Several men and women arrived in traditional dress as that was their best outfit befitting the special occasion. I was surprised to learn that many young women have started wearing kimono year ’round as they enjoy the wide range of style options available though the simple changes of accessories. Must say it was rather strange to see a woman dressed in a kimono using a cell phone - ah, when eras collide. 

In Arimatsu, we happened to stumble upon an extraordinary kimono sale that was taking place in a very old house. The closest thing I could think of in Western culture might be a bridal fair as each room in the house had displays from different kimono, obi, and accessory companies from around the country. Women of all ages were on hand for the event. It was especially interesting to see young girls being fitted with different accessories for the same kimono (like the girl on the left in these photos - real colour of kimono closer to bottom photo). 

Yoriko told me that they were likely getting a new kimono for the January 15 celebration. This is Coming of Age Day in Japan and it’s marked by special celebrations to honour those turning 20 yrs of age. In Kyoto, a traditional part of the festivities includes an archery contest (Toshiya) at Sanjusangen-do, one of the city’s major temples which is also known for its 1001 statues of Buddha. Imagine young people in their finest traditional dress shooting arrows at the corner of the temple roof! While in Kyoto, we saw a number of young women with bows who were apparently arriving in town for the event. For more info re Toshiya, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tōshiya. We weren’t allowed to take photos at the temple, so to get an idea of what 1001 statues look like when grouped together, check out http://farstrider.net/Japan/Kyoto/Sanjusangendo.htm

I'll talk about more of the textiles we saw in another posting.